A Burgundy Suit: oversized blazer + slim pants

I had been eyeing the oversized blazer trend this fall. So when I saw Orageuse’s menswear-inspired Amsterdam blazer, I decided to give it a try. Having recently made my first coat, I went into making the Amsterdam feeling confident and ready to tackle the tailored jacket challenge.

I usually keep my personal stash pretty small and only buy fabric only when I’m ready to start a specific project. But I do have the occasional leftover like this burgundy stretch twill, which I bought for another project that never came to be. Had I bought some fabric specifically for the Amsterdam, I would have probably gone with a check wool, but in the interest of space efficiency (and sustainability), I decided to go with what I had. For the lining, I used a red and white polyester that I found at an estate sale a few months ago. I didn’t think these two would ever come together but that’s the beauty of the de-stash exercise!

I cut a size 36 and didn’t make any alteration. I’m shorter than the pattern’s standard height, but I wanted to emphasize the oversized look so I didn’t remove any length.

I struggled a bit at the beginning. Interfacing all the pieces took a long time (and it’s never my favourite part). Then the first few steps got me really confused and I kept having to unpick and redo the strap seam/pocket area which I couldn’t align properly. Nothing to do with the pattern itself which is beautifully drafted, just my brain not processing the instructions as it should! So that first couple of sewing sessions got me frustrated. Thankfully, the rest of the construction went better. I loved assembling the shawl collar and the tailored sleeves. As recommended in the instructions, I added small sleeve heads (which I made out of fleece) for the shape of the shoulders and it visually makes a huge difference. I also loved how Orageuse included a page that explained the vocabulary used for a tailored jacket’s different parts, something that was a mystery to me until then.

I made matching pants from the remaining twill. After the time/brain commitment of the Amsterdam blazer, I wanted to make something quick and easy to go with it. So I used Colette’s Clover slim pants which I had made before and knew that I could tackle in an afternoon. I think that they finish the look very nicely.

The ensemble feels both chic and relaxed at the same time. I’m glad I was persistent with the Amsterdam. I absolutely love my new oversized blazer!

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Thanks for looking!
-Emmanuelle
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